Los Buses

Quickly, I want to give you a glimpse into the personalities of Quito buses. They can range from wacky and wild to sterile and professional.

I got on one the other day and felt I had entered a sort of enjoyable, tacky hell. Everything was bathed in a gaudy red--filtering in from the red tasselled curtains onto the plush red seats and bouncing off the rear view mirrors that emanated inch-long red fur around their perimeters. The virgin Mary was on display in the front of the bus, looking out saintily from her warmly lit glass box. A huge 3x2 Winnie the pooh plastic cushion lollygagged haphazardly near the entrance, and the Bee Gees blared on the loudspeaker.

Other bus rides, like that this morning, are peaceful, quiet, newspaper-reading rides.

Also of note are the many vendors in the buses. They hop on from the street and begin distributing little individually-wrapped candies regardless of whether they are desired. A speech is given in which the price of the candies is named. They then go back down the aisle with an open palm, getting back either the candy or the requested amount of coins. The most interesting part is that everyone seems very respectful of this solicitory ritual.